mountains, moose, and more mountains

Deep breath in... and out. The smell of pine and sagebrush. The feeling of rock and dirt beneath my boots. Sharp mountain peaks, bright midday sun, glimmering glacial lakes. And the sounds: call of the magpie, chirping of chipmunks, gurgling and whooshing of mountain streams, crackling of moose footsteps. This is the experience of a national park. I am grateful to those who had the foresight to preserve these places. I am thankful that I've had the opportunity to visit them.

Here's some of what I saw on the latest trip - to Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming.

of course, there are the mountains


Didn't realize at the time that this was about where Ansel Adams snapped a famous photo, I think he was a bit further upstream.


A forest fire burns at the base of Mount Moran. Fires are most often started by lightning and are closely monitored while they are left to burn. They are beneficial to many plants, such as lodgepole pine.


Mount Moran has a distinctive geologic feature -- a basalt (molten rock) intrusion.


Cascade Canyon Trail, an 11-mile hike (or 9 if you take the boat across Jenny Lake both ways, 13 if you skip the boat altogether) with breathtaking views.


Glacial till from the last ice age. We looked for marmots among the rocks, but they happen to be hibernating already.


Part of the park's "sustainable" menu: elk/bison burgers at Jackson Lake Lodge. They were delicious, and so was the view.


This view inspired JD Rockefeller, Jr. to preserve this place as part of the national park.


families of fauna


Mama and baby moose (called cow and calf, respectively), on the appropriately named Moose-Wilson Road.


Papa moose (or bull), seen on the Cascade Canyon trail.


An elk bull and his harem.


One of 5 or 6 bald eagles we encountered on the trip. They like to hang out by waterways, like the Snake River.


A "least" chipmunk. Tiny and adorable.


pollinators aplenty, and maybe some pests


Butterflies abound.


Bees, too.


This may or may not be an Asian longhorn beetle. If it is, I'm sorry I didn't report the little bugger (I didn't know they frequented these parts). I was too busy trying to get this shot as he was perched on my shoulder.


lovely flora




Leafy spurge, I think. One of the wanted weeds.


Thistle or spotted knapweed?


This one's not a weed, it's a columbine.


Sagebrush bathed in sun.


adventure!


Hot air balloons launched right near where we are staying (Teton Village).


If we were staying one more day, I think I might have wanted to try paragliding. We watched this guy take off from Rendezvous Mountain.


Weeeeeee!!

off to the wilds of wyoming

Bison in Yellowstone, the Tetons neighbor to the North.

Howdy y'all!

I'm off to wrassle some dogies out in the wilds of Wyomin'. Well, okay, not really, but a girl can pretend a little, no?

In reality we are heading to Grand Teton National Park and the Jackson Hole area for some fresh air, nature loving, hiking, rafting, and horseback riding. A lot to fit into a 4-day itinerary! I'll be back in a week to report on all of our adventures.

Happy Labor Day and enjoy the week!

x L

september in the city - UPDATE!

I love September in New York. Dry sunny days, crisp clear nights. A perfect time to enjoy the great outdoors. Yes, we do have great outdoors in NYC. Here are some great ways to experience them this month.

I've added a couple things I thought you should see:

Queens County Farm BBQ & Campout
This weekend!
September 6 to 7


Here's your chance to nosh on some tasty chicken BBQ'd by none other than celebrated butcher Tom Mylan while sipping on some local suds courtesy Brooklyn Brewery. And if that's not enough, there'll be delish pie, a DJ spinning tunes, camping, and wake-up bloody Marys! Hello?! Why haven't you bought your ticket yet? Get 'em here.


Central Park Bird Walks
brought to you by the Nature Conservancy
September 3 to October 26



NYC is a big stopping off point for birds migrating south for winter. Learn the ins & outs of bird watching with Kellye Rosenheim in Central Park. Get the full schedule and details.

Reservations are required. Please contact (212) 381-2194 or nycbirdwalks@tnc.org for reservations and cancellations.

Metropolitan Waterfront Alliance Events
September 4 to 26


Waterfront walking tours, kayaking Staten Island, tugboat races, and many more activities are on MWA's calendar this month. Check it out!


Governors Island Art Fair
brought to you by 4heads
Every weekend, September 5 to 27



Over 150 independent artists and galleries from around the world come together on Governors Island – free ferry to and from Manhattan and Brooklyn. Get the details.


Solar Powered Film Series
brought to you by GreenEdge NYC & Solar One
September 10 to 19



Get your fill of sustainable films in this series of serious documentaries – screenings powered by the sun.

Doors open at 7:00 pm each night at Solar One (23rd St. & FDR Drive)
Films start at 7:45 pm, followed by Q&A

September 10: Addicted to Plastic (trailer)
September 11: Who Killed the Electric Car (trailer)
September 12: Flow (trailer)
September 17: A Sea Change (trailer)
September 18: The Garden (trailer)
September 19: Burning the Sun (world premiere!)

Plus, every night of the series features a segment from Brooklyn filmmaker Michelle Vey’s From Elegance to Earthworms. Get more info.


National Parks Week NYC
September 19 to 27



I'm a big fan of National Parks. I've only been to 5 of them (soon to be 6!), but I've got my sites set on many more. Luckily, this month, the National Parks are coming to me – and everyone else in this fair city. The National Parks Conservation Association is hosting a full line-up of events all over NYC, including coastal clean-ups in Queens, a tour of Grant's tomb after dark in Morningside Heights, and screenings of clips from Rick Burn's latest documentary about the parks in Central Park. There are just too many events to list here, so here's the full schedule.

surviving australia

When I saw the posters outside of the Australia Museum for the exhibit "Surviving Australia," I thought maybe it was an exhibit about how humans survived all of the deadly creatures on this isolated continent, once known in Europe as "terra australis incognita" (unknown southern land). This was only part of the story.

Upon entering the exhibit I realized it was more about how the creatures survived the deadly invading humans. Extinct, endangered, and threatened animals were featured in varying media. Threatened and endangered animals had taxidermied representatives. The extinct were mainly shown in illustrations, with the eerie exception of the Tasmanian tiger, of which there was archival film footage.


Thylacine, or Tasmanian tiger, was exterminated by man by the early 20th century. It had the appearance of a canine, but like many Australian animals, it was marsupial. [Read more here.]


There were life-sized recreations of megafauna, long extinct when Westerners arrived. Giant wombat-like marsupials and enormous kangaroos (up to 10 feet tall) once roamed the continent.


Thylacoleo, an extinct marsupial lion.


The fate of several animals was doomed upon the arrival of the white man. According to the exhibit, "in the last 200 years, over 50 vertebrate species and an unknown number of invertebrates and plants have disappeared from Australia -- presumed extinct." With habit destruction, introduction of foreign plant and animal species, and sometimes intentional extermination, the pig-footed bandicoot, several types of emu, kangaroo, and wallaby, and the Tasmanian tiger met their untimely end. Today, countless birds, amphibians, reptiles, and mammals are endangered or threatened because of humans. And Australia is sparsely populated compared with other continents (barring Antarctica), with about 21 million people covering the whole country.


The endangered regent honeyeater.


The endangered Tasmanian devil (I have a photo of a live one in my broken memory card).

When land is cleared did you know that everything living is killed? Between 1972 and 2006 it has been estimated nearly 4 billion birds, mammals and reptiles have died as a result of land clearing in Australia.

One-third of Australia's woodlands... has been destroyed.

An estimated 50 percent of wetlands have been destroyed.

Over three-quarters of Australia's rainforests have been destroyed.

Alright, let's get down to the fun stuff -- the animals that are deadly to humans! I timed my trip to the museum perfectly, because the next day we were off to the tropical north, where all of these toxic creatures live. Saltwater crocs, chironex and irukandji box jelly fish, death adders -- they're all in Queensland's coastal regions. And let's not forget the great white shark!

Huge, predatory Saltwater Crocodiles are one of Australia's most famous dangers. They're the world's biggest living crocodiles and can swim underwater at 30 kilometres per hour [18.6 mph] without causing a ripple. They can leap out of water fast enough to outrun a horse (over a short distance) and far enough to catch low-flying birds.

It was kind of an exciting prospect to be able to possibly witness one of these creepy beings. I avoided going in the water for fear of deadly jelly stings. (I went for a horseback ride and even Rocky, my trusty steed, wouldn't take a dip -- maybe he knows something I don't!) Every branch brushing against my legs was a Sydney funnel-web spider waiting to intoxicate me.


An interactive display describes the chironex box jellyfish

Alas, the scariest thing I came across was a little baby reef shark on the Great Barrier Reef -- and he was so scared of me that he darted away as soon as a I spotted him. But my boyfriend got to see a young saltwater crocodile on Bedarra Island -- I wonder where mama croc was?!

back from oz with little remorse

I had an amazing time down under. The people are friendly, the food incredible, and -- it's spring now -- so the weather is terrific.



In Sydney, I walked all over. As eco-conscious as the city is (after all, they were the pioneers of Earth Hour), their public transport system is not the greatest -- certainly nothing like NYC's. Sydney's economy isn't the greatest right now either (whose is, really?), so they've cut funding from their public transport developments. I got an earful from a local about it -- he's none too pleased that he moved to a neighborhood that was meant to be receiving new public transport options, but after he relocated, the city reneged on the deal.

Budget cuts aside, there is a decent bus and train system and a centrally located ferry system that makes it easy to get to various points on the Parramatta River and other parts of Sydney Harbor.

But there's nothing like walking a city to get to know it. We stayed in Woolloomooloo, with a great view of the skyline. It was a perfect central location away from the really touristy parts, right by the Royal Botanic Gardens, and a short walk to The Rocks (where Sydney's Western history begins), Darlinghurst, and Kings Cross (a cleaned up red-light-like district).

There are farmers' markets all over the city (organic and plastic-bag-free), as well as weekend shopping markets where you can get locally made goods (we went to a great one in Paddington). I tried my hardest to buy only Australian-made goods during the entire trip. I was doing really well until the day before we left Sydney for Dunk Island, Queensland.

I was feeling run down, had the sniffles and a sore throat. I'd also been walking around a lot, trying to collect souvenirs for friends and family. I'd walked all the way to Woollahra and then all the way down to The Rocks (about 9km or about 5.6 miles). I wanted to soak in the sights one more time before heading out of the city. I was feeling really tired and vulnerable. I spotted an interesting gift for someone (who shall remain nameless, as will the item!) and the sign said it was Australian. Why then did I ask the merchant if it was made in Australia? I guess I had to be sure. As I place the item on the counter, she says, "It's designed in Australia, and made in China. But it's really good quality!" I was weak. I caved. It was the only thing I bought not actually made in Australia. Even the muesli bars I bought at Woolworth's boasted 100% Australian owned and made.

I thought about returning it, but I was already out of the shop... and hurting for a nap. Maybe I'm a bit neurotic, but I beat myself up a bit for the purchase.

Though by the time I arrived at the tropical confines of Dunk Island, I think I got over it.

i made it! sydney, australia

We arrived here in Sydney yesterday at 9am (that's 5pm ET, the day prior). A few hours after our arrival, and after a much-needed shower, my travel companions and I took a walk through the Royal Botanical Gardens. After a 23 hour trip, it was safe to say we were jet lagged. So it would be easy to understand why we would be confused by the joggers running past us and towards us at 1pm on a Monday afternoon. I'd never seen so many people running about, especially in the middle of a workday. It quickly became clear, Sydney is a seriously health conscious city.

We were headed in the direction of the Sydney Opera House, then on to the ferries at Circle Quay, and ultimately, the Taronga Zoo. We'd heard there was a baby hippo there, born only 3 days ago. A very exciting prospect. Plus, I'd read there were wombats and koalas, and other native Australian species.

After marveling at the Opera House structure, we made our way to the ferry. It's a nice 12 minute ride to the other side of the harbor where the zoo is located. Once we disembarked, my boyfriend asked a woman at the entrance about the baby pygmy hippo. He received some disappointing news. Baby hippo, "Monifa," was not ready for her debut.


Little Monifa

Despite the sad news and our flight-induced delirium, we immediately got on the Sky Safari. From that conveyance we saw Asian elephants, a binturong (Asian bearcat), and an orangutan!


Binturong (Asian bearcat)

The zoo had a lot of construction going on and quite a few of the attractions were not up and running. We did not see the platypus. We only saw the backside of a wombat. We managed to observe an echidna -- a curiously cute little creature. Many of the other animals eluded us. By the time we reached the orangutan habitat, he was hiding on a high perch under a potato sack. All we could see of him were his dangling dreads of hair and a bit of his protruding face.


Echidna

As we were heading out, we got to see giraffes, a tapir, and a closer look of the Asian elephants. Exhausted, we headed back to the ferry, dreaming of a nap before dinnertime.


Giraffe


Tapir


Asian elephants

By the time I went to bed at 10:30pm (6:30am ET), I hadn't had a decent sleep in about 48 hours. Needless to say, I slept like a baby... hippo.

speaking of the land down under

In the last post, I told you about a way to win a trip to New Zealand. This Saturday I won't be heading to that magnificent land, but I'll be going very close... to Australia!

And while I'm psyched about seeing cuddly koalas and kangaroos, sitting on pristine beaches, and eating shrimp on the barbie, that's not the first thing I thought of when considering this trip. It's the enormous carbon footprint my flight will create. The round trip flight from NYC to Sydney is nearly 20,000 miles of travel, equivalent to about 4 tons of CO2 emissions. Yikes!

I'll definitely be buying some carbon offsets for this one. But I don't think that's enough. So I'm going to leave it up to you. What else can I do to make up for the carbon spewing flight?

Look for the survey, coming soon!

UPDATE:
Okay, I've added the poll at the top of the page. You can add other suggestions in the comments section.

During my stay in Oz, what should I do to make up for the flight's carbon spew?

• Eat no meat for the entire trip
• Buy only Australian made goods
• Volunteer for a local environmental group
• Other (add your own idea to comments)

wear wool and win

Does the idea of wool underwear make you itch? It shouldn't if it's deliciously soft merino wool from New Zealand. The only thing high performance, machine-washable, and eco-friendly merino wool clothing from Icebreaker will have you itching to do is hop the next plane to New Zealand to meet the sheep who wear this wool full time.

And a contest from Icebreaker is giving you the chance to do just that. Here's how it works:

1. Get yourself an Icebreaker garment. Find its unique Baacode (that's not a typo!). This tag will trace all of the steps of manufacture (see step 3).

2. Type in your Baacode number in the box provided on the site.

(If you can't find a Baacode on your garment, you can use their demo Baacode: 213C3F390.)

3. Watch as your Icebreaker will be traced back through the supply chain -- from animal welfare to the way the fabric was sewn together -- to its birthplace in the Southern Alps of New Zealand.

An entry form will pop up once your Baacode has been traced. Then just submit your details and you'll be in the draw to win a trip to a merino ranch in New Zealand!




Icebreaker is the real deal
Learn more about their commitment to sustainability.

You can get Icebreaker at these retailers.

tread lightly: eco travel

One of my eco vices is travel. I love to go to new places, especially if there's a chance I'll see some wildlife. The conundrum is this: in pursuing this desire to experience all of the planet's wonders, I'm contributing to its detriment.

The only way to stop loving the planet to death is to sacrifice travel altogether -- I'm not ready to do that. But I am willing to put some effort into reducing my ecological impact when I travel. For starters, I can pack less stuff, take my own water bottle (empty, of course, to get through airport security), offset my carbon output, and choose lodging that's environmentally responsible.

National Geographic Traveler put together a comprehensive guide that offers 50 ways to travel responsibly (well, as responsibly as possible) and still have fun. It's a great resource to consult before your next trip.

[National Geographic via Treehugger]

glamorous camping?

My boyfriend hates camping. The discomfort of sleeping on the ground, the syncopated cacophony of crickets and frogs, the inaccessibility to running water. But what about glamping?

This supposedly eco-friendly form of camping -- think luxury safari complete with raised platform tents or yurts and real beds -- might just appeal to him. The purist would probably disagree that this is actually camping or truly low-impact, but it's less stressful on the environment than a conventional resort with reduced energy and water usage. And it's one step closer to nature than a hotel or lodge would be.


[Image: Clayoquot Glamping Resort via Trendhunter]

From the NY Times:

At Mille Étoiles, a campsite with 14 yurts in the Rhône-Alpes region of France overlooking the dramatic Ardèche River gorge, the tents are built on oak and ash platforms and furnished (four-poster beds, oriental rugs, antiques) so guests feel, said Lodewijk van den Belt, one of the owners, “like you are in an Edwardian safari tent.” ...

On the California coast an hour south of San Francisco is Costanoa (www.costanoa.com), a lodge and camp surrounded by 30,000 acres of state parks and wildlife preserves, visitors would be hard-pressed to call their 76 tented bungalows “tents.” They are like stand-alone rooms with canvas walls and ceilings, hardwood floors and made-up beds with heated mattress pads (“So we can save energy by keeping the bungalow’s heat lower,” said Trevor Bridge, Costanoa’s general manager.)

While guests can choose to stay in the lodge or in a cabin, Mr. Bridge says the bungalows are sold out every summer and are popular even through the autumn (there are three comfort stations with bathrooms and showers). Campers can cook their own food on grilling stations throughout the campsite (picnic food and coal are available at the general store), or eat meals at the restaurant. There are an outdoor hot tub and a 24-hour dry sauna and spa. Weekend rates for a tented bungalow that can sleep three starts at $115.

Unfortunately, glamping isn't always quite as economical as regular ol' camping. At Paws Up in Montana, the rate starts at $695 per night for two (with all 3 meals included). And at Clayoquot on Vancouver Island, Canada, it's about $4500 US for the minimum 3-nights' stay -- on par with the price of a luxe African safari.

Read more about glamping in the NY Times.

vast expanses of america

Nothing but peaks and valleys, green fields, vast plains for as far as the eye could see. Nothing but cows and their calves, destined for a CAFO (concentrated animal feeding operation). Nothing but horses and ranches, for hundreds of miles -- from park to park, nation to nation.

On the US side, little in the way of renewable energy resources. With the abundance of land and sunshine, I expected to see solar panels gracing the pastures. None that I could see. On the Canadian side, adjacent the cattle were wind farms.

On both sides of the border, much talk about the consequences of receding glaciers. Drought. Fires. The lengthening summers and conversely shortening winters. The related changes in animal behavior.

Passing Butte, MT, my jaw dropped. As if someone had a giant chisel, the entire landscape was sliced out.

This is the America I experienced on my recent trip out West. Both amazing and alarming, at least from a passerby's perspective. It was beautiful, but I can't help but eco-scan everything I see.